Our Neighborhood (8/20/2010)

       Our first order of business as we settle into our new home, is exploring our neighborhood.  We have an apartment on the 20th floor of a building on the Diamondhead side of Waikiki.

View from building "hallway"

        Although Waikiki is full of high rises, we are adjacent to a residential neighborhood which provides numerous advantages.   The first is having access to an actual grocery store, Safeway.   While most tourists end up shopping at ABC stores, a high priced convenience store located throughout Hawaii, we get to shop at the high priced Safeway.  In the two days we have spent here so far, we have already gained a greater appreciation for food.  With milk at over $5 a gallon, we don't throw out what's left after our cereal.  With bread at $4 a loaf, no more cutting off the crust.  It's about more than just expense, it's about waste, as we realize that every bit counts.
         Another advantage is that there is a library right across the street, the Waikiki-Kapahulu branch.  Compared to those in Phoenix and Scottsdale, it is nothing to write home about, but I will anyway.  It reminds me of my neighborhood branch in Brooklyn, in that it is simple and quiet (at least while school is in session).  It has shelves along the outside walls, rectangular tables, and a lady with glasses that shushes you if you speak above a whisper.   For $10 you can get a visitor's library card that is good at any Hawaii library for 3 months.   I think it's the best bargain in Hawaii.  The librarian at the desk seemed genuinely happy to see us.  I think he'll be seeing a lot more of us.
         One more advantage is the school next door.  Although the kids are not going to school here, the sound of school bells and kids playing at recess reminds us of our goal here; not just to play and visit, but to live.  We are doing everyday things here,and living our lives.  I need a reminder of this when I begin to marvel at our must-do list of activities.  Luckily, we have a lot more than a week to get to them.
          Ok, now about the beach.  Yesterday, we went to the beach at about 7:00am, after waking up at 5:00am and doing some home learning.  About two blocks away, we entered the world of the tourist.  High rise hotels on every block, people handing out tour coupons, Restaurants galore, and every retail store imaginable (chain, luxury and touristy), and lots and lots of people, in bathing suits.   The beach is beautiful, and at 7:00am, not very crowded.  Alex, Nicki and I went boogie boarding just east of the wall.  I was shocked at Alex's enthusiasm for this activity.  For a kid who is cautious in the shallow end of a wave pool, he eagerly paddled out into the ocean to catch a wave.  As he likes to say, he's "more into it than anyone else".  Nicki held her own, being a little fish and all, but she was no match for the power of the ocean, as wave after wave knocked her on her butt and then again just as she got to her feet.  It never ends, they don't turn it off after 10 minutes of fun.  Steve and Joseph later joined us, Steve to body surf  himself and Joseph to keep us company without getting wet or sandy.
      The next days will bring more fun and everyday activities.  We are all happy to be here, but just like any adventure, it takes a while to get used to, especially the tiny apartment and non-stop togetherness  With a little more patience, I think we can all make the adjustment without killing each other.  Plus, we are determined to have fun!

  

Mother Nature (8/28/2010)

        Many people have told us that if you want to see the real Hawaii, you need to get out of the city.  We did just that this week.  We traveled to the Big Island of Hawaii, the biggest and newest of the Hawaiian Islands.   After a short 40 minute flight, we arrived in Hilo, early enough to start our adventure.  

        I was first struck by the beautiful, sunny weather.  Yes, sunny weather is not uncommon in Hawaii, but the last time we were on the Hilo side of the island, it was rainy all day.   Our first order of business was to return to Akaka Falls.  We saw them clearly from the viewing area this time and the gorgeous rainforest looked even more beautiful in the dappled sunlight. This time of year, the rains come at night.

        After a lovely lunch at Cafe Pesto (highly recommend) in downtown Hilo, we headed straight for the Kalapana viewing area, an area at the end of Highway 130, which the county set up to view the latest lava flows.  The lava has been flowing actively near here for a few months now.   In fact, the last viewing area, further down what used to be highway 130 was covered in lava about a month ago.   As we drove to the area, I got so excited to see a plume of smoke that looked like a very low lying cloud out on the horizon.  This was the steam and gases caused by lava flowing into the ocean.  We reached the viewing area some time before sunset, so there was no glow.  We explored the most recent flow which decimated this residential neighborhood.  There are still a few houses and a bunch more "For Sale" signs  (For Sale: Ocean View Property).  It's a real bargain.

Plume from Lava entering Pacific Ocean

        There was no surface lava that day (it had been diminishing over the past week), but as the sky grew darker, we saw the puffy white plumes change to light pink and then to a deep orange.  It was amazing to watch the plume change color and shape as thousands of gallons of lava spilled into the ocean creating more Hawaii. The lava was flowing underground in a tube to the ocean.  You could see steam rising from the ground just above the tube up the slope of Kilauea.

       When we finally tore ourselves away from this extraordinary scene and made our way back to the parking area, we were treated to another once in a lifetime sight.  Now, rainbows are pretty much a dime a dozen in Hawaii.  We have seen one every evening from our Honolulu apartment since we have been here.  We weren't expecting to see one in the darkness, at 8:00pm, though.  This "moonbow"  is a rare rainbow lit up by the light of the full moon.  It was unbelievable.  We could see all the colors from end to end and portions of the secondary rainbow.

       When the rainbow faded, we headed closer to the car, but were stopped by another sight, this time, man-made.  Vendors have set up booths to sell arts and crafts.   Leigh Hilbert's booth of lava photos were marvelous.  As we chatted and perused the artful photos, I realized that I had been visiting his blog for a month now, in preparation for our visist.  You should too, at hawaiianlavadaily.blogspot.com  Leigh's information is so up-to-date and layman-friendly, and his pictures are terrific.  If you care to see exactly what we saw, check out his August 25 blog.

        As if that wasn't enough of mother nature for a while, our vacation continued at the summit of Kilauea volcano at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park,  a must see for any Hawaii visitor.   Over the next couple of days, we spent our time exploring old lava fields, driving down chain of craters road to see the lava rock sea arch,

Holei Sea Arch

learning the difference between pahoehoe and a'a lava, looking down tree molds (the holes left by trees that fell victim to a lava flow), deciphering the Pu'u Loa petroglyphs and visiting the Thomas A. Jaggar museum.

         The Jaggar museum is a wonderful site overlooking Halema'uma'u, the active crater of Kiluea caldera and the home of Pele, Goddess of the Volcano.  During the day, you can see the vast caldera which is about 400 feet deep and two miles across, with smoke plummeting out of the Halema'uma'u crater opening.  There is a lava lake whose surface is currently about 100 feet down. The noxious sulfur dioxide gases are so bad that they have closed at least half of the crater rim drive.   The museum is upwind and houses many educational exhibits about Halema'uma'u.  At night, you can see the glow of the molten lake below.  The white smoke turns a deep orange as the sun sets and you can easily fool yourself into thinking you are see the actual lava. 

        We were also treated to a Volcanologist-led tour of the park, where we learned about and explored fissures, sulphur banks and a lava tube.  The kids learned so much on this trip and as part of their home-learning, they participated in the Junior Ranger program which is available at every National Park.  After completing age appropriate learning and conservation activities, Joseph, Alex and Nicki took their Junior Ranger oath, logged their names in the Volcano Junior Ranger book, and earned their badges and a poster each.  We were so proud.

        On our last day on the island, we ventured  to the southernmost community in the U.S., Naalehu, and ate breakfast at the southernmost bakery in the U.S.  Heading back north, we stopped at the Punaluu black sand beach.   The black sand is caused by the eroded lava flows.  The sand was a lot softer than I expected but still grainy.  The big draw here are the native residents, the green sea turtle, or honu.  We saw several in and around the flat rocks along the shore and a large one, relaxing in the sun.   I loved seeing the turtles up close but at least 15' away for their protection.

Honu - Green Sea Turtle

        The final sightseeing stop of the day (before dinner at Ken's Pancake House) was about 7 miles north of Hilo, the Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden.  If you know a of tropical plant from around the world, you will probably find it here, from Beehive ginger to Monkeypod tree.  Many people feel that introducing new plants in this environment risks invasive species taking over the landscape.  Considering so many of the plants we associate with Hawaii actually originated elsewhere (Macadamia Nuts from Australia and Pineapple from Paraguay), I find it hard to believe a well maintained botanical garden will cause much damage. Frankly, putting a non profit tropical garden here is far superior than a resort.  The garden itself is set along the Hamakua coast on Onomea Bay.  Aside from the gorgeous flowers, it has picturesque waterfalls and a beautiful coastal view.  

Steve and Nicki at Onomea Bay

         As we flew black to Honolulu, it was hard to escape the symbolism of our return to the city.  Leaving the natural paradise of the Big Island, we encountered a drunk local on the airplane.  He was admittedly headed to Honolulu for the weekend to party.   We were clearly on our way back to the city, but notwithstanding the drunk guy,  it has charms all its own.


For tons more pictures, visit www.aidaspics.phanfare.com

"I Call Taking a Shower First" (9/4/2010)

        I don't think I've ever heard this phrase coming from my kids until now.  I hear this practically every day in Hawaii.  We are taking advantage of all the outdoor opportunities in this natural paradise, and it's a dirty business.

        The messiest of all is by far the sand.  It gets everywhere!  Not just everywhere on your body.  It consumes all the places where you and your stuff resides...... your home, your car, your drawers full of clean clothes, your purse and your reusable shopping bags.  In fact, our checkout lady at Safeway, Lehua, spent a good two minutes shaking my bag out before she would put my newly purchased groceries in it.  I told her she didn't have to do it, but she insisted.  Maybe she's had a taste of turkey and sand on a whole wheat roll and wanted to spare me the experience.

        When you are ready to leave the beach,  you wash off in the ocean in a big wave, which helps a little.  Next, you rinse off at the beach-side showers.  After our first public shower, where we hogged all the spouts for an uncivilized amount of time, a local told us where the more powerful showers were.   They were better, but even after that, we stilled trekked plenty of sand to our apartment a good five blocks away.   I swear you could fill a kids sand box with what's left in our shoes, bathing suits and towels after a couple of hours at the beach.  I know what Joseph feels like when he doesn't want to go to the beach because he'll get all sandy, but the prospect of missing out on frolicking in ocean or snorkeling is too unthinkable to make me deny myself this pleasure.  I've decide to live with it, especially since I have no choice.

       Then there's the sweat.  It's true, we are more active here in Hawaii with so much outdoor activity and everything else within walking distance.  But more physical exertion is just part of it.  The weather is deceptive.  When the sun is blaring on you, you feel hot.  Otherwise, you feel so cool and comfortable in the constant breeze that you are surprised by the moisture soaking through your shirt in just a short walk.  To say the least, it's a wet heat.  On the plus side, no chapped lips.  On the minus, poofy hair.......with sand in it!


        Today, we discovered yet another reason to shower.......mud.  We hiked to Manoa Falls in the gorgeous Manoa valley.  This is where we see rainbows every evening from our apartment.  The reason: it rains every evening.

The wet valley is behind that rainbow

 That leaves morning hikes full of muddy trails and dripping leaves.  Slippery rocks, plus mud, plus kids equals a royal mess.  It's worth it, though.  The valley is pristine, the falls spectacular, the sweat profuse the poofiness unimaginable.
 

Part of the muddy trail to Manoa Falls

        In Phoenix, we don't really get too dirty.  There's certainly no sand.  There's hardly enough humidity to cause us to sweat (and not much reason to work one up, at least in the summer). And there's not much opportunity to wallow in mud (although when the opportunity does arise, we sure do take advantage of it).   Sure,  we shower after the pool, but it's not because we feel dirty, it's because we feel unnaturally clean, almost antiseptic, with all the chemicals we've dipped ourselves into. 

          We are getting down and dirty here.  One with nature, if you will.   But, so far,  we always come home eager to wash that nature away and get back to normal.  Never before have I or my kids been so dirty..........or so clean.

Go Fish (9/12/2010)

        The first week we were here, Steve bought a game for all of us to play on the occasions when we didn't have something exciting planned and we were cooped up in the small apartment.   It's called Go Fish! Hawaii.  Yes, it's just Go Fish, a game you can play with any deck of cards, but each card has a lovely drawing of a Hawaiian fish along with its Hawaiian name and a description.  Very educational ;)  and it has been worth the hefty price of $8 for the deck.  We play often because it is (mostly) fun to play games with your kids and this game has the right balance of luck, strategy and memory we look for when playing with an almost 6 year old.  What's most enjoyable, though, are the fish names, themselves.   The joy in our voices is apparent as we ask, "Nicki, do you have any Humuhumunukunukuapuaa?" or  "Alex, give me all of your Lauwiliwilinukunukuoioi."  These fish names are so fun to say, once you get the hang of it.  Nicki started off just holding up her card, not wanting to attempt the reading, but now she joins the rest of us in our all-out pronunciation of these funny fish names. 

        The fish pictured on the cards need to be seen though, in their natural habitat.  I am surprised it took us so long to finally get out in the water to snorkel.  It did take a while to make sure we had all of our equipment.  Aside from Alex (who needed to practice in our pool at home), we all bought snorkel gear here in Hawaii.  Once we had the masks, snorkels and fins, I went on a quest for "floaty things" like the banana yellow float belts Steve and I rented along with our snorkel gear the last time we were in Hawaii.   While we are all strong swimmers, I felt it best that we have flotation devices for our snorkeling adventure.  For me, at least, it makes the experience more enjoyable.  I don't really worry about tiredly stepping on fragile coral , or even worse, sea urchins.  I effortlessly float above it all, saving my energy for propelling myself forward to chase the cool species that swim by.   We settled on life jacket-like apparatus for Alex and Nicki, which warned "not to be used as a life saving device".  Ok, if someone is in trouble in the water, I promise not to use this to save their lives.  My search for float belts for the rest of us brought me back to Snorkel Bob's.   Turns out, Snorkel Bob will sell you one for $45 but, otherwise, they are nowhere to be found.  Being the consummate bargain shopper, I called all over town; surf shops, big box stores, sporting goods, even ABC.  I went online (of course I found exactly what I wanted here - but I didn't want to wait around to receive them) and asked around.  I just couldn't believe that these floaty things were not sold side by side with snorkel gear.  I was starting to think that I was a total wimp to for not wanting to tread water for an hour to watch fish do their thing.

        I hit the jackpot, though, when I found aqua aerobics equipment at Sports Authority.  They have a "Aqua Fitness Jog Belt"  that is designed to fit around your waste and keep you vertical as you jog or  pump iron under water.   At $25 a pop, it was the best bargain I could find.  We practiced snorkeling in the apartment pool, with and without the floaty things.  I was so glad I had my float belt.  It gave me the security to actually feel comfortable with my face under water, a fear I have never quite overcome since childhood.  Plus, since we were going with our kids, who are notorious for hanging onto you in the water, every bit of added buoyancy helps.

        I have snorkeled at three spots in Oahu so far.  Nicki and Alex and I went to the famous Hanauma Bay a couple of weeks ago.  It is a volcanic crater that filled up with water as the sea level rose on the southeast side of the island.  It's a short drive from Honolulu, once you manage to find the on ramp to H1 going East.  It was beautiful and a great first stop for snorkeling.  It is a protected (and popular) area, so they make you watch a movie about the area and how to preserve it.  Throngs of people get there early to snorkel, with good reason.  It has loads of fish with close shore reefs and a nice beach that makes for easy entry.  The water is usually calm, but it was more choppy than I expected.   And it's got a big parking lot, although it always fills up by 11am.  We got there at 7:30am and it already felt crowded to me, but anything worth doing near Honolulu is like that.  We saw plenty of Pakuikui, Lauipala and Kikakapu at Hamauna Bay.

Pakuikui (Achilles Tang)

        This week, we all went up to the north shore to snorkel.  It was important for us to get up there before the "winter".  From abut October to February, the north shore waves swell and I've heard that some "summer snorkeling spots"  become too dangerous to even stick your toe in.  The north shore of Oahu is famous for its surfing and especially the Banzai Pipeline, where expert surfers risk their lives to ride the over 12'waves.  We headed to Shark's Cove and it did not disappoint.  It was really like swimming in an aquarium.   There were fish everywhere. There were tons of Humuhumunukunukuapuaa and this was the first time I saw Kihikihi and Puhi.

Humuhumunukunukuapoaa (the state fish of Hawaii)

The only problem was the entry, which was stressful, especially with kids.  We sat in the shallows amid big rocks, waiting to work out our best approach into the deeper water.  As we watched people go in and out, some scraped up; we settled on a best route.   After you navigate the rocks near the shore and reach the deeper part of the cove, it is peaceful and magnificent, like being invited into a friend's home and being completely at ease.  I've felt this way before, the first time I snorkeled 5 years ago.  It's corny, but I felt like I was home.  No, not in Phoenix, but a deeper home, an earlier home.  For someone who is uncomfortable to go under water in her own pool, feeling at home in the ocean is a big deal.  I did not want to get out.  I didn't even want to lift my face out of the water.

Joseph, my snorkeling partner

        After Shark's Cove, we decide to go to Three Tables.  Some people call it Four Tables, but I could only see three.  Anyway, this was a short walk (made longer with 3 kids and 3 shopping bags full of gear) from Shark's Cove and there is a lovely beach with the three tables jutting out of the ocean about 50 yards off the sandy shore.  There is a great reef near the tables and to the east of the beach.   The entry is much easier via the beach, but the fish, although they are everywhere, are less abundant than at Shark's Cove.   This is where I saw awela, which reminds me of Howard Johnson's because of the bright orange and blue.  The kids enjoyed the beach.  Even Joseph liked it.  He says the sand is coarser, so it's less annoying than our usual beach.  Lying on the beach, exhausted from swimming (even with a float belt, it's tiring) as the kids played in the waves and Steve explored the reef some more, was so relaxing.  It was perfect.

Awela (Christmas wrasse)

        Swimming in what seems to be an aquarium is thrilling.  There were so many fish at each spot, that it became hard to distinguish them from one another.  Honestly, if it was one of the fish in our Go Fish! Hawaii game, it was more exciting and memorable, probably because I could actually name it.  Mostly, though, as we swim and watch, I would urge myself to remember the "yellow one with a little bit of black" or the one that "fluttered on the ocean floor" (that turned out to be puhi), or the little "white fish with all the black polka dots" so I could look it up on our laminated reef card later.  We quickly realized that the reef card was inadequate, so later in the week, I bought a whole book about Hawaii's shore fishes.  This fit our purposes much better as we found real pictures of the fish (male and female, juvenile and mature).  As we compared, I found it fascinating that someone snorkeling just a few feet away from you could catch things that you didn't and miss things that you stared at. The sea is an ever-changing kaleidoscope of moods and colors..........but I digress.

         It turns out snorkeling is a lot like playing Go Fish! Hawaii .  It is a blend of luck, strategy and memory.  If you are lucky, the conditions are perfect and you can find a parking spot.  With the right strategy, you can snorkel with the least effort and stress.  As for memory; even if your memory of the specific creatures falters, the memories of the experience will last a lifetime.  We will definitely do this again.  Maybe even today!

The Charm of the City (9/18/2010)

        Living in Hawaii has reminded us that the city can sometimes be hectic.  There is so much going on, all the time, it's easy to overlook the wonderful scenes unfolding all around you.    On our walk to the Waikiki Community Center, we almost missed our opportunity to help a lady, a neighbor, who was stuck on her balcony on the 15th floor.   She couldn't get back into her apartment and didn't have a phone to call for help.  We wouldn't have noticed her had it not been for the elderly man on the sidewalk who was looking up the side of the building.  It is a well-known fact of rubbernecking, that if someone is looking up at something, passersby will immediately follow suit and look up, even if there is nothing to look at.   Even though he didn't seem to understand her predicament or how to help, this stranger's  simple act of looking up in the middle of a busy sidewalk, called enough attention to her situation that help soon arrived.  That's where I came in.   I managed to speak (or yell) to the stranded lady during the 60 second breaks in the noisy traffic on Ala Wai Boulevard.  I got her apartment number, and we decided on the best plan of action.  I called the building manager and checked on her to make sure she was OK.  She was so appreciative, but I assured her that it was "no big whoop".  After all, we live in a city.  Someone was bound to help eventually.

        This scene reminded me of growing up in Brooklyn.  We were constantly talking, or rather, yelling, from our apartment down to the street.  In fact, we would often toss items down to our family members or friends from our 6th floor window.   If the ice cream truck stopped at the park down the block, there was always someone running to the building to "call" their mom so that they could "send" down some money.  This was before cell phones.

        There's a lot about Honolulu that reminds me of Brooklyn.  Take the parks, for instance.  There are many small urban parks in our neighborhood.  Each has a playground, patch of grass and a rundown building -- a rec center, where they hold classes, do arts and crafts, and play games.   After your hasty first impression, you soon realize that this is the heart of the community for the kids.  My first job ever was a playground assistant at our rundown rec center down the street.  It was my job to play with the kids and organize games for them.   At Paki park, here in Honolulu, Miss Jess is much more than a playground assistant.  She leads most of the weekly classes that are offered, including Ceramics, Hula and Science.  Nicki's signed up for all these classes, Alex signed up for two.

        There is so much "hustle" on the streets here, another reminder of my days in NYC.  People are getting from one place to another on their feet.  This is not only true in the toursity areas, but the residential neighborhoods as well.  People walk to the store, the park, the library, the restaurants, to get shave ice,  just like we did in Brooklyn (but we got Italian ice).    I love my car and have always loved the freedom that comes with being able to pick up and drive wherever you want.  But there is also a freedom that comes with being able to get around without a car.   I try to nurture this freedom wherever I've lived by sometimes abandoning my car and getting around on my own two feet.  We have had some success in Phoenix.  We often walk to Safeway and the library, and take the light rail when we can.  We picked our neighborhood because we could walk to the park!  This freedom is a priority for me even in the most car-essential places.

        Diversity is a hallmark common to all major US cities, though each has its own special brand.  New York is melting pot, truly, but each neighborhood has its own ethnic identity, the ethnic group that you most associate with a city or a neighborhood.   Seriously, there is a street in our old neighborhood in which practically every family is Greek.  My old apartment building, it turns out, is the place to live if you are a Russian immigrant.  A short walk will reveal Honolulu's ethnic identity as Asian, a unique blend of Japanese, Filipino and Polynesian peoples.  Naturally, there are many Asian tourists here due to Hawaii's location, but my impression is that the majority of the locals here are Asian, too.  It's probably different in the suburbs or outside the city, but here in Waikiki, we look less like natives and more like every other American mainland tourist.   I think there is value in experiencing "minority" status.  Not to say that anyone has been rude to us or denied us any service because of our ethnicity, but I think it's good to notice that not everyone looks like you, and it's OK.  Nicki noticed this in her hula class.  It made her a little uncomfortable at first, but she'll get used to it.  She'll appreciate it, the same way I appreciate my experience at Brooklyn Tech High school which was predominantly African-American and Asian.

        The noise is another telltale sign of city living.   Right outside our window, Ala Wai Blvd and Kapahulu Rd are constantly zooming with cars and mopeds, sirens blare at all hours of the day, the driving range across the street provides a constant backdrop of clanks and smacks, and even 20 stories up you can sometimes hear people partying or arguing on the street.  Add to that the occasional bird and wind and you have a Honolulu chorus of white noise that makes for wonderful night's sleep.   I've always been one of those people who find the quiet disturbing.  I don't have to worry about that here.

        Living with a lot of people in a cramped space is difficult.  As a family in a small apartment, we certainly can't get away from each other.  There is no privacy, no space.  You cannot avoid what someone is saying or watching or listening to.  As a person in the city, you are never alone, not in the elevator, on the street, at a park.  Luckily, you are not even alone when you are trapped on you balcony 15 stories up.    I'm glad I grew up in a city and I 'm glad my children have a chance to experience it for a few months.  I want them to know what I know.  That the most charming thing about living in the city is the people.  Whether you like them or not, or even know their name.  Whether they're family, friends or strangers.  Even when you want to be alone or want to party on the street.  Living in a city is a clear reminder that you are constantly sharing a space with others.  Which is something that's true no matter how big your space is, but is easy to forget elsewhere.  And I find this truly comforting.  I guess you can take the girl out of the city, but you can't take the city out of the girl.  Even in Hawaii.

Vacation Pictures (9/26/2010)

         Ever since Steve and I returned from our trip to Kauai 3 years ago, I had been wanting to show the kids this island, the most beautiful place on Earth.  I would picture my favorite beach, Tunnels, on the north shore.  While I was snorkeling in the water there last time, I couldn't decide what to look at: the plentiful fish, the beautiful mountains, or the expansive ocean.   I wanted to take them on a catamaran ride along the Na Pali coast to see the verdant cliffs and sea caves.  And I wanted to try some new things that I'd seen in tour books and brochures, like hiking in Waimea Canyon, going to Ke'e beach, kayaking, visiting a botanical garden, horseback riding or mountain tubing.  I got the chance to show my family all Kauai had to offer this week as we took a little "vacation" to the Garden Isle.

         I planned a picture-perfect vacation.  This time, I really wanted to stay on the north shore, before October when the winter swells render many north shore beaches almost unswimmable.   This trip was also the first time in a long while that we took a vacation that was not part of a work-related trip.  Since most of our vacations are trips of opportunity, piggybacked on one of Steve's many conferences, we are not usually responsible for the destination or even the hotel (but, fortunately, not all the cost, either).  This vacation to Kauai, however, was completely my vision.

Kalalau Valley

         We encountered many disappointments as we embarked on this trip.  Our boat tour had been postponed due to weather and cancellation was a possibility.  The kids were especially annoying and cranky.  And it was raining when we arrived.

        As planned, we drove straight to Koke'e State Park and Waimea Canyon after we landed.  Rain is not a big deterrent on Kauai.  After all, Kauai is home to the world's rainiest spot, Mt. Wai'ale'ale, but it did make it difficult to get a good view from the Na Pali coast overlooks.  The mist and rain were sporadic, so while sometimes you could see to the ocean, most often visibility was limited to a few feet.  Luckily, for a few minutes, the fog dissipated and we saw a beautiful rainbow deep in the Kalalau Valley below.

       The rain also put a damper on our plans to do a rim hike in the Waimea Canyon, which would have been slippery and dangerous. Waimea Canyon is one of the gems on this small (550 square miles) island.   Although it's not as grand as the Grand Canyon, its beauty rivals our Arizona treasure.   As we headed out of the park and down to a lower elevation, the rain subsided.  We happened upon a great little hike, the Iliau Nature Loop and the start of the Kukui trail, which had terrific views of the canyon, nice examples of Kauai vegetation (with labeled signs), and nice rocks to climb.  Most importantly, it gave us the opportunity to stretch our legs and goof around for more than a few minutes. It was a much needed break for all of us after a couple of hours in a compact car.

That night, even after settling into the beautiful Hanalei Colony Resort, taking a solitary (recall the compact car and three children) sunset stroll, and enjoying the pool and hot tub, I couldn't help but feel disappointed in our vacation.  Things were not going according to plan. 

        Since our catamaran tour had been postponed, we woke up the next morning with no plans.  This is a new concept for me.  The weather was beautiful, but the surf was dangerous.  Snorkeling on the north shore, including my favorite spot, Tunnels, was out of the question; and none of us wanted to get back in the car for a road trip to the south shore of the island where the surf was calm.  After a semi-slow morning, we decided to go to Ke'e beach, the trailhead for the 11 mile Kalalau (Na Pali) trail.  We hiked the first half mile, which was rocky but not difficult, and which quickly rewarded us with surprising views for our effort.

View of Na Pali coast from the Kalalau trail

Alex and Nicki with their prized walking sticks

         The rest of the day brought more unexpected fun as we decided to take an afternoon kayaking trip.  Kauai is the only Hawaiian island with navigable rivers.  With at least 3 major rivers and so many companies offering tours specifically designed for novices (like us),  the choices for kayaking were overwhelming.  I finally had just given up trying to plan this activity.   It's a good thing I did, because we ended up renting kayaks right on the beautiful Hanalei river and taking a 

Hanalei river from kayak

self-guided five mile round-trip paddle up the river and down to the bay.   Nicki was "captain" of the kayak she shared with Steve and Joseph, barking orders and demanding "full speed ahead!".  We stopped to swim in the river, a highlight for

Steve, Joseph, and Captain Nicki

the kids.  This strenuous activity had earned us a treat, Lappert's Ice Cream (yum yum), back in town.   A sunset stroll along the beach and dip in the pool and the hot tub topped off a most fun, mostly relaxing, and totally unplanned day!

        The next day brought another surprisingly fun day.  A trip to the Kilauea Point Lighthouse and Wildlife Refuge brought us spectacular views of the windward coast

View from Kilauea Point Lighthouse

and numerous bird sightings, including the Nene (Hawaiian Goose), Red-Footed Booby, Wedge-tailed Shearwaters and Albatrosses.  We took the opportunity for some "vacation" learning, as the kids became Junior Rangers once again.

Nene

Since the weather was good (and hot), we stopped at Anini beach where the surf was manageable but the snorkeling was sub-par, due to the previous days' swells.  We had fun on the beach, though, while Joseph watched chickens at a safe distance from the sand.

          That afternoon, although we considered going to a botanical garden, we decided to stay at the condo and play games instead (oh, did I mention, there was no TV at the resort?).  As if the weather were waiting for us to make plans, it started raining the minute we took out Connect Four.

          The last time I was in Kauai, I took a boat ride along the Na Pali coast that was so beautiful that I desperately wanted to show Steve (who was busy at his conference) and the kids (who were back in Phoenix).  I got my chance the last day of our trip.  The catamaran ride was rescheduled for the last morning of our trip.  It was fantastic!

just some of Na Pali

The scenery was fabulous, and the small size of the boat made it possible to explore some sea caves.   Alex's favorite part was the bumpy ride, which I handled just fine with the help of dramamine. 

Sea Cave

        As our vacation came to a close, Steve and I were overcome with exhaustion.  For our last hours on Kauai, we took the kids to Lydgate Park's Kamalani playground and while they played, we rested.  This was a good time for me to review our vacation.  I pulled out my camera, as I often do, not to take pictures, but to look at pictures.  This is one of my favorite activities: looking at pictures I've recently taken (sometimes only minutes before), cropping them sometimes, and going through them over and over.

          Pictures are like the edited version of a trip.  When I look at them, I forget the stress of planning the family vacation, of rescheduling activities and events, and driving with children in small cars.  What I remember are the moments of joy and of beauty that we've been fortunate enough to experience.  The images on my cameras also replace the preconceived notions and visions I may have had for a trip.  Instead of scenes I replayed in my mind from the last trip, or pictures from so many Kauai brochures, I have images of a happy family on a beautiful island.  This vacation didn't meet all of my expectations... but it was fabulous!  And I have the pictures to prove it. 


For more pictures,  go to www.aidaspics.phanfare.com


 

La Hanau Season (10/2/2010)

        This week marked the beginning of what I call Birthday Season.  It's the time of year in which we celebrate all three kids' birthdays.  Alex's and Nicki's were this week and Joseph's is coming up.  We didn't exactly plan to have all three kids at the start of fall three years apart like clockwork, but I love the way it worked out.   After the excitement of summer and start of school, it's great to kick off the national holiday season with our very own Birthday Season, just as the weather in Phoenix starts to cool down.  For me, Birthday Season is better than Mother's Day, because each birthday represents the anniversary of the days I became a mother for the first, second and third times.  Each of those days was special and beautiful.  Looking back, I want to relive every aspect of having my children.   I wish I could go back and hold their tiny (well, not so tiny at 9, 9.3 and 10lbs) little bodies in my arms.   I wish I could take back all the times I'd wished they'd hurry up and grow out of a certain unpleasant phase of their life.  Now, I sometimes wish they would just stop growing.  I really didn't like the newborn phase with all the crying and lack of sleep, but I sometimes envy the clarity I had when my children were infants.  It's a time when everything is put into perspective by the fact that your sole purpose is to take care of this little creature for a while.  Almost nothing else matters at this stage and outside pressures and influences often get their proper due, and are ignored.  Birthday Season is a time for me to reflect and celebrate my children's, and my own, growth.

        This year, our birthday celebrations will have to do without some of the normal trappings of a birthday at home.  There is no big birthday sign which is usually left on the wall for months.   I won't be making any elaborately decorated cakes or cupcakes.  While I really do enjoy the baking, I'm relieved that  there's no need to triple bake for each birthday, once for the birthday itself on the actual date, once for the school celebration and once for the party which is often held on the weekend after.   Alex didn't even want cake this year.  We went out for Shave Ice instead and sang "Happy Birthday"  in the Waiola General store while it poured outside.  And for Nicki's birthday, we made a simple cake and orange Jell-O.

 

        This year, there weren't any nicely wrapped presents meant to surprise the kids, either.  We've simplified present buying this year.   For instance,  our major present to Nicki was allowing her to have a "Dolphin Encounter" at Sea Life Park.  She went with her Daddy and got to meet Miki'oi, a blind Bottlenose Dolphin, who did the Hula on Nicki's command and gave her a kiss.

All we have to lug home of this birthday gift is a set of pictures.   All Alex wanted was to play glow-in-the-dark  3-D mini-golf.  Luckily, there's such a place within walking distance.   Joseph will be treated to Parasailing and Ziplining when it's finally his chance to celebrate.

        The kids did get toys as well, but there was no wrapping paper and no surprises.  Our generous relatives sent money so that each child could go on a shopping spree.  I don't think I would have fully embraced this idea at home, since I love to see the look on their faces as they unwrap surprise gifts.  But, I'm beginning to think that surprise gifts are overrated.  My kids know exactly what they want and, in the event that they are surprised, it most likely means they didn't get what they had hoped for.   Shopping for their own presents made them very happy.

        It is the celebrating with others that I miss the most.  While I offer each child a party every year, Alex always prefers a low-key celebration with just the family.  For several years now, he has just wanted to take a cake to the train park and eat and play.  While I secretly wish he would want a party, I must admit, this is a very nice way to celebrate his birthday.  Nicki, on the other hand,  always takes me up on my offer to have a big party.  It has become an annual event that we've started to plan during the summer when there is nothing else to do.  The boys have gotten involved in the planning as well, chipping in with ideas and their artistic talents for decorations.  Last year, they were actors as well, as we put on a play (The Missing Princess) for our friends.   This year, there was no planning, no party, no play.   Nicki seems fine with it but I am disappointed.   While some people find this type of event not worth the trouble, I love it and I actually miss all work that goes into such a project.

        With no pressure to have great parties and cakes and surprises this year, I had more time to just be with our kids.   Time to reflect on how much they have grown and what the experience of living in Hawaii has meant to them.  Alex, now 9, has grown up so much.  While the (loud) little boy who can't accept change still shows his face once in a while, for the most part, he is willing to try new things.  He is embracing our new, temporary lifestyle.  He sleeps on the floor on a little bed made of sofa cushions without much complaint.  He does his school work without much coaxing and does it well.  He participates in local activities like the park's ceramics and science classes, lei making, palm weaving and he even took a little hula lesson at Waimea Valley Park this week.   He has grown a fondness for water, bodysurfing at the beach, snorkeling , and even swimming in the chilly Waimea Falls' 40ft deep pool.  He has certainly grown a lot in the past year, but more especially in the last month and a half.

Alex (and Nicki and me) doing Hula

        Although I still call Nicki my baby (and I don't think I will ever stop), she is no longer a baby.  She is a wonderful girl who lights up any room she walks into with her genuine smile and affection for the people in it.  In Hawaii, she has been the first to make friends and play with other kids at the park.  She takes on the role as little hostess wherever we go, by greeting people with "aloha"  as they enter the elevator, make it to the end of a hike, or come into the library.  She has a special affinity for the Hawaiian fashion, wearing lovely floral print dresses, flower hair clips and no shoes.   She picks beautiful flowers (that fall to the ground) everywhere we go and makes little bouquets to give to strangers.  This certainly brightens their day and mine (and Nicki's).  I hope, since she is only six, she will remember this time in her life and the special adventures she was able to take.

Nicki at the Aloha Festival's Floral Parade

        As he turns 12 this year, Joseph is embracing life in Hawaii in his own way, as an educational experience.  Always so curious, especially about nature, Joseph is relishing his opportunities to learn about plants and animals, the formation of the islands, the language and culture, usually from a safe distance.   It always amazes me that he can identify a bird with its full biological classification by seeing it once for a few seconds.   Often with his binoculars and reference card, he hikes through valleys and along cliffs like an expert, always wanting to go further and faster until he can stop to observe something special like an insect, a plant, or a bird.   He still quizzes us on animals, like he has done for years, and most often we come up a little short.   But he is teaching us so much.  There is a lot for him to learn here in Hawaii, and it is not just about nature. 

        With Halloween, Thanksgiving and Christmas around the corner, I think our Birthday Season experience is preparing me for the mayhem that is to come.  With stores putting out holiday merchandise last month, it is easy to forget that Halloween isn't just about having the best candy or costume on the block, Thanksgiving is not just about having the "perfect meal" and Christmas is not just about decorating and buying presents.   At the heart of all of these holidays is the gathering together of people, (friends, relatives and neighbors), enjoying each others company through simple exchanges of candy, food and gifts.   Likewise, Birthdays are not just about the cake and the presents, they are about  growing up, which cannot be stopped or wished away.   I will never abandon all the trappings of holiday celebrations.  I will certainly continue to plan for occasions, bake, wrap presents and throw parties, but I will look upon them with a better perspective and ignore the outside influences that are unimportant, focusing rather, on living in the moment and sharing my joy with others.  That's the best way to celebrate any holiday, especially the anniversary of the birth of your children.

Happy Birthday Alex!

Happy Birthday Nicki!

Happy Birthday Joseph!

Me and my babies at Hanauma Bay

Just the Two of Us (10/9/2010)

Yes, we've been working out

        It really hit me while Steve and I were driving back to our apartment.  I was singing along to More Than a Woman by the Bee Gees when I realized we were actually alone.  The combination of the lack of bickering, the sound of actual music (which replaced our typical children's audio book on the stereo) and the view of Diamond Head  triggered a most welcome relaxed, vacationy feel. We were returning from a great snorkeling trip to Kahe Point Beach Park (nicknamed Electric Beach) while the kids were in camp.  

        This week marked the first time since we have arrived in Hawaii that Steve and I got to spend time alone.  It was fall intersession here, a break from school which allows families to spend quality time together.  Luckily there's another option, with a number of camps offered during these breaks.  It was the perfect opportunity for our family to spend just a little time apart.  I signed the kids up for 3 days of camp: a science camp at the Bishop museum, a "Hawaiiana" camp at the YWCA, and a magic camp at a local elementary school.   While they were having fun and maybe even learning something, Steve and I got to have a little "vacation" for ourselves.

        As our children made poi and learned some more Hawaiian words, Steve and I went snorkeling at Electric Beach, which is across the street from an electrical power plant.  Aside from the obvious aesthetic value of having a beach near an electrical facility, this is a great place to snorkel.  As in most electrical plants, water is used to cool down the generating equipment.  This clean water becomes hot and flows through large pipes into the ocean a few hundred yards off the coast of Kahe Point Beach.  The result is a warm(er) water oasis for fish and dolphins.

You can see the jacuzzi-like swirls in the water to the left of the boat

The fish, especially juveniles, love the warmer water, and the pipe provides a convenient structure for the growth of coral.  This was an ideal setting for a snorkel sans kids.  The swim out to the swirling hot water is a long one and the current is particularly strong.  The current forces you east surprisingly fast if you happen to take a little break, perhaps to turn on your new underwater digital camera to capture a school of fish.  This location is known for clear water

 

and a large variety of fish and even dolphins.  We saw plenty of Hinalea'i'iwi, Mamo, Lauwiliwilinukunuku'oi'oi, the standard Lauwiliwili, O'opu Hue, Kala, and of course, Humuhumunukunukuapoa'a.  While we didn't venture directly in front of the pipe, I did get a chance to experience the warmth of the water in this section of the ocean.   The strenuous swim due to the distance, current and negotiating of several large breaks, left me tired, but relaxed and happy at the same time.  This is a feeling I have been lucky enough to experience many times here in Hawaii, especially after wonderful new experiences. 

        On another camp day, we took the time to explore downtown Honolulu,  particularly, 'Iolani Palace, which is the only royal residence on U.S. soil.  It was the home of King David Kalakaua, his wife Queen Kapi'olani, and his sister and future Queen, Lili'uokalani.  The palace is beautiful and, as with any fancy home, a perfect place to visit without children.   The palace itself was gorgeous, and our guide's stories provided us with a Hawaiian history lesson.  A tale of a kingdom of islands united by King Kamehameha I in 1810, which ended in the arrest of Queen Lili'uokalani in 1895, Hawaii's last reigning monarch, and subsequent annexation by the U.S. in 1898.  The restoration of the palace, which began in 1970, continues to this day with an effort to reclaim furniture and artifacts which were sold at auction after the overthrow of the monarchy.

        After a lovely lunch at Cafe Laniakea which is in the historic YWCA (yes, the YWCA - a gorgeous 1927 architectural treasure), we listened to the Royal Hawaiian band on the grounds of 'Iolani Palace in front of the Coronation Pavilion, and we visited other historic sites such as the Justice building and Aloha Tower.

Justice building and Statue of King Kamehameha I

       This week was a nice break from our normal family togetherness timed perfectly in the  middle of our four month stay.  It was a chance for Steve and me to experience a "vacation" of sorts, because even when you are on vacation with your family, you never really get a break.  Parents are always on duty, planning family-oriented activities, packing snacks, and mediating fights.  For a few hours this week, we had the luxury of spending time together without all the work.  Likewise, the kids had a break from their parents, a chance to do fun things with kids their own ages.  Plus, they were spared the embarrassment of listening to their mom sing along to the Bee Gees.

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Flying By (10/16/2010)

        We went flying, quite literally, this week. We all went parasailing off the coast of Honolulu, even the little ones.  We went in threes.  First, Steve, Nicki and I were harnessed and attached to a parachute at the back of a speed boat.  Once we were secure, they let 'er rip and we were suddenly lifted up into the sky on a 700ft line, an exhilarating and fun feeling.    It felt like I was a kite taking off and then coasting through the air.  We were at the mercy of the gentle trade winds, pushing us around in a most pleasant way.  With the magnificent view and noticeable quiet, I did not want this 10 minute ride to end.  As they retracted our line for the return, we were dunked in the ocean.  This was a pleasant surprise right before we landed safely on the boat.   As Joseph, Alex and Steve (yes, Steve again) lifted off, I could see in their faces, what I felt on my turn......pure joy and surprise mixed with a little uneasiness, but so much anticipation for the rest of the ride.

Just taking off!

        Our whole trip so far has been a lot like my parasailing experience.   It all took off with a flurry of activity as I planned many activities each week.  Even the thought of homeschooling motivated and excited me back then.   Now, in the middle of our journey, we coast.  We are used to our surroundings and truly settled in to a sort of routine:  Monday Joseph-Archery; Wednesday Alex and Nicki - Ceramics; Thursday Nicki-Hula, Alex-Science, Saturday - Laundry and blogs;  and home learning nearly every morning.  We choose vacation-like activities based on whims and which way the wind blows (literally, since the wind affects the weather and surf so drastically, especially in the winter).   But, with the unavoidable end looming in the future, the wind is kicking up and blowing me (and my thoughts) in a new direction, toward home.

view while flying

        This realization makes me wonder if I am ready to give up this lifestyle, yet.   My day to day pace here is slow and steady.  My commitments are few and my responsibilities are only to my family.   I'm not flying all over the place to get things done, I am not really contributing to the community or any particular cause.  I don't even watch the news.   I have no interest in sustaining this upon my return.  After all, I don't want to coast along the rest of my life in a bubble, with the world flying by, but for now, it suits me just fine and I am not ready for it to end.

        Like so many journeys, the return always seems faster.  Even with so much time left on our adventure, I feel as though I've already started my way back home and I hope it doesn't fly by.  We have accomplished so much, but there is still so much more to do.  If we continue how we started, eager to make the most of our circumstance, the end of our journey can be as exciting and fulfilling as the beginning.  No doubt, we are in for a few surprises along the rest of the way.  With a visit from my parents and a trip to Maui during the next couple of weeks, we are sure to get dunked in the ocean before we head back home.

One last surprise before the end

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Ohana (10/23/2010)

        My parents are visiting from Phoenix this week and it is so nice to be reminded of home in such a personal way, a visit from your family.   On their visit we are trying to do things that bring us together as a family; sightseeing, playing and dining together.

They arrived just in time for Joseph's birthday, but Jospeh and Alex had previously arranged plans for the day, so the family celebration would have to wait.   The boys participated in the Lacey Veach day of Exploration at the Punahou School, in celebration of Hawaii's own astronaut who flew in the Space Shuttle.  He died of cancer in 1995, but his family continues his great work bringing science to the children of the islands by providing this activity each year.  It was apparent that the whole community missed him terribly and sought to honor him by spreading his passion for science to the next generation.  Joseph and Alex had a great time learning about the ocean and electricity while participatingin fun hands-on events  (ANLCers, sound familiar?).  Our family was able to come together for dinner for Joseph's birthday when we dined at the Oceanarium, which has a two-story aquarium inside.  As a special treat, we had a diver dive into the aquarium and hold a sign wishing Joseph a happy birthday.

      A visit to Pearl Harbor and the USS Arizona Memorial is a must-see here in Oahu, not only to pay respect to those that died on December 7, 1941, but also to experience the history of this place and the history of the United States of America.  When Pearl Harbor was attacked, the nation came together and joined a war that needed to be fought.  The US entrance into the WWII changed everything, in the world and back home.  Experiencing the power of this place with your family is especially moving.  Sharing it with several generations who experience it through the prism of their own lives (some long and some not long yet) makes it even more meaningful.

        Another great family destination on Oahu is the Polynesian Cultural Center.  I was a little leary of visiting a Polynesian "theme" park, beacuse I know that cultural accuracy is often sacrificed in the name of entertainment.  This was not the case at the Polynesian Cultural Center.  The performances and activities were authentic and enjoyable.    We learned a lot of about the Polynesian cultures from Tonga, Samoa, Tahiti, Hawaii, Fiji, the Marquesas and Aotearoa (New Zealand) in this park, which had different "islands" devoted to each culture.

       In "Samoa" we wove fish out of coconut tree leaves and learned the importance of the coconut tree in family life.  Samoans use every part of this staple plant.  In "Hawaii", we learned the art of ancient hula, a dance meant for storytelling, and its evolution into what it is today.   We all also learned to play the ukulele.

In "Tahiti", we learned about the French Polynesian islands and their signature fast moving hip shaking dance, the tamure .  The highlight was certainly when Steve was brought up on stage to participate in a dance off.  Check out Steve's dancing at http://www.aidaspics.phanfare.com/4872345   His performance starts at about 3 minutes in but the others are fun to watch as well.  In "Tonga", we met the "friendly people" and learned about the drumming that is used for both entertainment and communication.  In Tonga we also tried spear throwing.

       Ha, The Breath of Life, the large-scale nightly production at the Polynesian Cultural Center, told the story of a boy who travels through the Polynesian islands experiencing rites of passage along the way.  At each stage (ex: first birthday, marriage, death in the family), he participated the traditional family rituals through music and dance.  In an hour and a half we saw the circle of life through many of the Polynesian cultures.

     One night, Steve and I took advantage of our regular babysitters' visit and went out by ourselves while Siti and Jidu watched the kids, a treat for us and for the kids and the grandparents (or so I'm told).  We saw the Magic of Polynesia starring John Hirokawa.  This was a wonderful show full of showmanship, dancing, some comedy, and of course, illusions.  My favorite trick, pardon me, illusion, was when John Hirokawa made a helicopter (the state bird of Hawaii) appear out of thin air.  For his last illusion, Hirokawa related the story of how his son, growing up in Hawaii,  always wondered what snow was like.  He then made it snow for us, just like he did for his son, years ago.  It was a spectacular scene in the venue with snow produced first from a ball of wet paper in his hands and then throughout the whole auditorium.  Even though this wasn't the most impressive illusion, it did fill the audience with the wonder that his son must have felt the first time he saw it. 

        Ohana is the Hawaiian word for family.  Family is a very important part of the culture here.  It is not only about your relatives but also your community.   This week was all about ohana in many different ways.  Primarily, we experienced the joy of being with our relatives, especially for Joseph's birthday.  The boys participated in a recent Oahu tradition that is steeped deeply in the community; the education of a generation and the memory of a Hawaiian hero.   We also exerienced the comraderie of a nation brought together by a war that still resonates.  At the PCC, we witnessed the spirit of many tribal people who strive to keep their culture alive one family at a time.    We even had a glimpse of ohana at the magic show where the last illusion was a tribute to a son who asked his Dad a question.  Ohana is much more than just relatives---it is family, community, comraderie and respect.   We experienced all of this in Oahu this week.  No wonder Oahu is called the gathering place.

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